“Fashion phantasm” turn out to be Rei Kawakubo’s veritably transient summation of her most up-to-date collection for males, but that turn out to be, genuinely, precisely what we seen. There is one thing dialectical in regards to the contrivance in which Rei works. She affords a thesis one season, offers its antithesis the next, then lastly synthesizes each and every approaches. Such turn out to be the case for Descend, which turn out to be a—dare I inform the distinctly un-Comme note?—elegant summation of some tips she’s been toying with for a while.
Kawakubo’s longtime hatter Stephen Jones accessorized the apparel with memorable pieces of headgear from his comprise archives, which looked as if it would underscore the actual fact that we had been being supplied an define of some form. The units had the limpid eyes and marcel-waved hair of peaceful movie starlets. On their ft had been leopard walk-ons with jeweled buckles, or two-tone patent Mary Janes with sizable bows. And, by the inform of unholy contrast, they had been sporting classic tailored suits in grey flannel, pinstripe, and chook’s-understand. Rei pale her phantasm by inserting contradictory panels of fabric into these cloths of convention: a leopard assign of residing subsequent to twill, a tough signal in a Prince of Wales jacket, an indirect camo with chook’s-understand, or a print of a Napoleonic tailcoat laborious up against grey pinstripe.
The conflict of restraint and free up turn out to be so irresistible, it whisked us over a more conventionally confrontational community of boiled-wool jackets and unlit skirts that gave the affect positively barbaric in comparison to what had come earlier than. Instruct turn out to be restored with a three-fragment suit whose waistcoat turn out to be printed on the shirt below. Esteem I acknowledged, totally dialectical.
This evaluate turn out to be at the origin printed on males.vogue.com on January 23, 2009. It has been added to Vogue Runway in June 2021 as an part of The Misplaced Season.