“Vogue illusion” modified into Rei Kawakubo’s normally transient summation of her most modern sequence for men, but that modified into, in actuality, precisely what we saw. There’s something dialectical about the diagram Rei works. She affords a thesis one season, affords its antithesis the following, then in the damage synthesizes each approaches. Such modified into the case for Fall, which modified into a—dare I utilize the distinctly un-Comme observe?—graceful summation of some solutions she’s been toying with for a whereas.
Kawakubo’s longtime hatter Stephen Jones accessorized the clothes with memorable items of headgear from his own archives, which regarded as if it may possibly underscore the indisputable fact that we had been being supplied an outline of some kind. The units had the limpid eyes and marcel-waved hair of quiet movie starlets. On their toes had been leopard travel-ons with jeweled buckles, or two-tone patent Mary Janes with gigantic bows. And, by diagram of unholy distinction, they had been carrying classic tailored suits in gray flannel, pinstripe, and chicken’s-think. Rei aged her illusion by inserting contradictory panels of cloth into these cloths of conference: a leopard problem next to twill, a tough sign in a Prince of Wales jacket, an indirect camo with chicken’s-think, or a print of a Napoleonic tailcoat traumatic up in opposition to gray pinstripe.
The conflict of restraint and unlock modified into so irresistible, it whisked us over a extra conventionally confrontational crew of boiled-wool jackets and murky skirts that seemed positively barbaric in comparability to what had attain sooner than. Tell modified into restored with a three-piece suit whose waistcoat modified into printed on the shirt below. Treasure I said, totally dialectical.
This evaluation modified into on the origin published on men.fashion.com on January 23, 2009. It has been added to Vogue Runway in June 2021 as a phase of The Lost Season.