“Angles” became Kris Van Assche’s belief for his new Dior Homme assortment. A waistcoat built from ridged unlit and white paillettes absolutely embodied the premise, as did triangular cutouts in jackets. Angularity being one thing of a New Wave belief (all those skinny of us in skinny suits playing skinny tune), it became scarcely a surprise to hunt down echoes of the eighties one day of the screen, from Malcolm McLaren’s remix of his dance hymn “Deep in Vogue” to oversize tees with huge-lettered messages, exactly esteem Katharine Hamnett’s originals (a blueprint that became famously purloined by Frankie Goes to Hollywood for the “Frankie Stutter Collected down” T-shirt, which is, obviously, one other eighties reference). Alongside them were the thin unlit suits which might maybe be a Dior Homme signature, and the voluminous, multi-pleated Hammer pants—though M.C. himself barely squeaks beneath the wire of the Decade that Taste (Allegedly) Forgot—that Van Assche has made his relish. This season, he eased up on the amount just a tiny and folded the waistband to invent a form of cummerbund. As a replace, he supplied the actual opposite: tight pants with a zippered calf.
This review became before the whole lot published on men.fashion.com on January 26, 2009. It has been added to Vogue Runway in June 2021 as a part of The Lost Season.